Kunengehafu yembatya dzepasi rose dzakagadzirwa nepolyester uye fungidziro yeGreenpeace iyi inosvika kaviri panosvika 2030. Nei? Mutambo wemitambo kana chimwe chezvikonzero zvikuru shure kwayo: nhamba inowedzera yevatengi inotsvaga zvipfeko zvakatambanudzwa, zvinodzivirira. Dambudziko nderekuti, polyester haisi sarudzo yakagadzikana yemucheka, sezvo inogadzirwa kubva ku polyethylene terephthalate (PET), iyo yakajairika mhando yepurasitiki munyika. Muchidimbu, mbatya dzedu zhinji dzinobva muoiri, ukuwo sangano reIntergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) riri kuda kuti paitwe matanho akasimba ekuchengetedza tembiricha yepasi kusvika pa1.5 °C pamusoro pemazinga asati atanga maindasitiri.

Makore matatu apfuura, sangano risina purofiti Textile Exchange rakapikisa makambani anopfuura makumi mashanu emachira, embatya nezvitoro (kusanganisira hofori dzakaita seAdidas, H&M, Gap neIkea) kuti vawedzere kushandisa kwavo polyester yakadzokororwa ne25 muzana panosvika 2020. Zvakashanda: mwedzi wapfuura , sangano rakabudisa chirevo chekupemberera kuti vakasaina havana kungosangana nechinangwa makore maviri nguva yekupedzisira isati yasvika, ivo vakapfuura nekuwedzera kushandiswa kwavo kwepolyester yakagadziriswa ne36 muzana. Pamusoro pezvo, mamwe makambani gumi nemaviri akavimbisa kupinda mudambudziko iri gore rino. Sangano rinofanotaura kuti 20 muzana yepolyester yose ichashandiswa zvakare muna 2030.

Polyester yakadzokororwa, inozivikanwawo serPET, inowanikwa nekunyungudusa pasi purasitiki iripo uye kuitenderedza zvakare kuita polyester fiber itsva. Nepo kutariswa kwakawanda kuchipihwa rPET yakagadzirwa kubva mumabhodhoro epurasitiki uye midziyo yakakandwa kure nevatengi, muchokwadi polyethylene terephthalate inogona kudzokororwa kubva kune ese ari maviri-maindasitiri uye emashure-yevatengi ekuisa zvinhu. Asi, kungopa muenzaniso, mabhodhoro mashanu esoda anoburitsa faibha yakakwana kune imwe yakawedzera hombe T-shirt.

Nyangwekugadziridzazve mapurasitikiinonzwika senge zano rakanaka risingarambiki, mhemberero yerPET iri kure nekuve kubvumirana munharaunda inogadzikana yemafashoni. FashionUnited yakaunganidza nharo huru kubva kumativi ose.

Yakagadzirwazve polyester: izvo zvakanakira

1. Kuchengeta mapurasitiki kuti asaende kunorasirwa marara uye munyanza-Polyester yakadzokororwa inopa hupenyu hwechipiri kuzvinhu zvisingagadzirike uye zvingangozoguma zvave mumarara kana mugungwa. Sekureva kweNGO Ocean Conservancy, 8 miriyoni metric matani epurasitiki anopinda mugungwa gore rega rega, pamusoro peanofungidzirwa mamirioni zana nemakumi mashanu ematani ematani ari kutenderera munzvimbo dzemugungwa. Kana tikaramba tichiita izvi, panosvika gore ra2050 pachange pave nepurasitiki yakawanda mugungwa kupfuura hove. Purasitiki yakawanikwa mu60 muzana yeshiri dzose dzemugungwa uye 100 muzana yemarudzi ese ekamba dzemugungwa, nekuti dzinokanganisa purasitiki sechikafu.

Kana zviri zvekurashirwa marara, sangano reUnited States Environmental Protection Agency rakataura kuti marara epasi akagamuchira matani mamiriyoni makumi maviri nematanhatu epurasitiki muna 2015 chete. EU inofungidzira mari yakafanana inofanira kugadzirwa gore negore nenhengo dzayo. Mbatya pasina mubvunzo chikamu chikuru chedambudziko: kuUK, mushumo weWaste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP) inofungidzira kuti mbatya dzinosvika 140 miriyoni yemapaunzi dzinoguma dzaraswa gore rega rega. "Kutora tsvina yepurasitiki nekuishandura kuita chinhu chinobatsira kwakakosha kuvanhu nenharaunda," akadaro Karla Magruder, Nhengo yeBoard of Textile Exchange, mune email kuFashionUnited.

2. rPET yakangofanana nevirgin polyester, asi inotora zviwanikwa zvishoma kugadzira - Recycled polyester inenge yakangofanana nevirgin polyester maererano nehutano, asi kugadzirwa kwayo kunoda 59 muzana shoma simba kana ichienzaniswa nevirgin polyester, maererano neongororo ya2017. neSwitzerland Federal Office for the Environment. WRAP inofungidzira kugadzirwa kwerPET kudzikisa kuburitswa kweCO2 ne32 muzana kana tichienzanisa neyenguva dzose polyester. "Kana iwe ukatarisa kutenderera kwehupenyu kuongororwa, rPET inokwira zvakanyanya kupfuura mhandara PET," anowedzera Magruder.

Pamusoro pezvo, recycled polyester inogona kubatsira kuderedza kubviswa kwemafuta asina kuchena uye gasi rechisikigo kubva kuPasi kuita mamwe epurasitiki. "Kushandisa polyester yakadzokororwa kunoderedza kuvimba kwedu nepetroleum sechitubu chezvigadzirwa," inodaro webhusaiti yePatagonia yekunze, inozivikanwa nekugadzira mvere kubva mumabhodhoro esoda akashandiswa, tsvina isingashandisi uye mbatya dzakasakara. “Inomisa kurasa, nokudaro zvichirebesa upenyu hwemarashi uye kuderedza kubudiswa kwechepfu kubva mumidziyo yekupisa. Zvinobatsirawo kusimudzira mafambiro matsva ezvipfeko zvepolyester izvo zvisisapfekeki,” rinowedzera chikwangwani ichi.

"Nekuti polyester inosvika makumi matanhatu muzana ekugadzirwa kwePET pasi rose - kanenge kaviri izvo zvinoshandiswa mumabhodhoro epurasitiki - kugadzira iyo isiri mhandara yekugovera cheni yepolyester fiber ine mukana wekukanganisa zvakanyanya simba repasi rose nezviwanikwa," inodaro American apparel brand. Nau, anozivikanwawo nekuisa pamberi pemachira esarudzo.

Yakagadzirwazve polyester: iyo cons

1. Kudzokorodza kune zvakusingakwanisi -Nguo dzakawanda hadzina kugadzirwa kubva kupolyester chete, asi kubva musanganiswa wepolyester nezvimwe zvinhu. Kana zvakadaro, zvakanyanya kuoma, kana zvisingaite, kuzvigadzirisa zvakare. “Pane dzimwe nguva, zvinogoneka nehunyanzvi, semuenzaniso zvinosanganiswa nepolyester nedonje. Asi ichiri padanho rekutyaira. Dambudziko nderekutsvaga nzira dzinogona kukwidziridzwa zvakanaka uye isu hatisati tasvika, "akadaro Magruder kuSuston Magazine muna 2017. Mamwe machira uye kupera kwakaiswa pamachira anogonawo kuita kuti asashandiswazve.

Kunyange zvipfeko zvine 100 muzana yepolyester haigoni kushandiswazve zvachose. Pane nzira mbiri dzekudzokorora PET: mechanically uye kemikari. “Mechanical recycling kutora bhodhoro repurasitiki, kurisuka, kurichekeresa nekuridzosera kuita chipu chepolyester, icho chinobva chaenda nenzira yechinyakare yekugadzira fiber. Kudzokorodza kemikari kuri kutora marara epurasitiki chigadzirwa nekuchidzosera kumamonomers ayo epakutanga, ayo asingazivikanwe kubva kune virgin polyester. Avo vanogona kuzodzokera mune yakajairika polyester kugadzira system, "akatsanangura Magruder kuFashionUnited. Yakawanda rPET inowanikwa kuburikidza nemuchina kudzokorodza, sezvo iri iyo yakachipa pane maviri maitiro uye haidi makemikari kunze kwekugezesa kunodiwa kuchenesa zvinhu zvekupinza. Zvisinei, “kupfurikidza negadziriro iyi, faibha inogona kupera simba rayo uye nokudaro inoda kusanganiswa nevirgin fiber,” inodaro Swiss Federal Office for the Environment.

"Vanhu vazhinji vanotenda kuti mapurasitiki anogona kudzokororwa zvachose, asi pese pese pese pese paanenge achipisa purasitiki inopera, saka iyo inotevera iteration yepolymer inoderedzwa uye purasitiki inofanira kushandiswa kugadzira zvigadzirwa zvemhando yakaderera," akadaro Patty Grossman, muvambi we Masisita maviri Ecotextiles, mune email kuFashionUnited. Textile Exchange, zvisinei, inotaura pawebhusaiti yayo kuti rPET inogona kushandiswazve kwemakore akawanda: "hembe kubva kupolyester yakadzokororwa inovavarira kuramba ichidzokororwa pasina kushatiswa kwemhando", yakanyora sangano, ichiwedzera kuti iyo polyester nguo kutenderera ine mukana wekuva " a closed loop system” rimwe zuva.

Avo vanotevera mutsara wepfungwa waGrossman vanopokana kuti nyika inofanirwa kugadzira uye kushandisa mapurasitiki mashoma kazhinji. Kana veruzhinji vachitenda kuti zvese zvavanorasa zvinogona kugadziriswa, vangangoona pasina dambudziko mukuramba vachidya zvinhu zvepurasitiki zvinoraswa. Nehurombo, chikamu chidiki chete chepurasitiki chatinoshandisa chinodzokororwa. MuUnited States, ingori 9 muzana yemapurasitiki ese akashandiswazve muna 2015, sekureva kweUS Environmental Protection Agency.

Avo vanodaidzira kuti vaone kupembera kushoma kwerPET vanodzivirira kuti mabhureki emafashoni uye vatengesi vanofanirwa kukurudzirwa kuti vafarire mafivha echisikigo zvakanyanya sezvinobvira. Mushure mezvose, kunyange zvazvo rPET inotora 59 muzana shoma simba kuti igadzire pane virgin polyester, ichiri kuda simba rakawanda kudarika hemp, mvere dzemakwai uye zvose organic uye yedonje yenguva dzose, maererano neshumo ra2010 kubva kuStockholm Environment Institute.